There’s a new crag in town, offering climbers two main buttresses and dozens of routes ranging from 5.9+ to 5.13c. The area, named Dinner Branch after an adjacent creek, is near the Cumberland Trail and is currently being developed by a group of local climbers. We caught up with one of the developers and author of Chatt Steel Cody Averbeck to put together this sneak peek climbing guide for Bachelor Buttress.
Getting there
Because this is a new climbing area, there isn’t an official approach trail. Reaching it isn’t difficult, but requires using landmarks and natural features.
Park at the Roaring Creek trailhead, about 40 minutes north of Chattanooga. (You can find it by searching for Brayton Road, Graysville, TN in Google Maps.) From the parking lot, follow the gravel road and bear left when it forks after a few hundred yards. Cross Roaring Creek and continue uphill on the same road for about 15 minutes; there will be a cliff on your left and a small creek on your right. When the road levels out, a large cliff will become visible on your right. Cross the creek to approach the base of Bachelor Buttress.
Routes – Left to Right
Swafford Project – 5.13a
First route on the main butress formation. Climb a juggy face up to a very hard roof. Good warm up to roof.
Taken – 5.11a
A great warm up. Climb overhung juggy face up to anchor below large roof.
Slam Duncan – 5.12b/c
Another good warm up to roof, but this one continues out cap roof past a unique roof boulder problem.
HiMon – 5.12b
The classic plumb line out the apex of the buttress. Fun jug climbing up the prow to a crux at the very end.
Oh Baby! – 5.13a
Another classic pitch. Starts fluffy and then gets it on once you pull onto the marble white headwall.
Apache Blessing – 5.12b
Mega! Steep jugs lead to a left trending traverse to a climactic final throw to anchors.
Wolfpack – 5.11c
Another killer line up the right side of the buttress.
Floral Arrangement – 5.11a
Ledgey adventure climb on surprisingly bullet rock leads to an awesome boulder problem on the upper headwall. A bit reachy.
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